Tuesday, August 5, 2008

A still hummingbird

I'm sitting on the roof of my apt (theoretically there's a breeze up here but not at the moment) watching a hummingbird perch on a branch 5 feet away, totally still. I've never seen one not in motion, I wonder if this is a singularly lazy one, but then my neighbor comes home and it darts away. It's head was much more "fluffy" than I would have thought given how sleek its feather look while it hovers.

Sunday, August 3, 2008

My time in Mexico City

A couple weeks ago I went to Mexico City for the first time (or el DF, “day f ay” as it’s known in Mexico, or simply “Mexico” in an interesting collapse of capital and nation) with some trepidation. I had been meaning to go for a while (and one grant application even had me spending three months living there learning about reproduction on a more general/ national level) because I felt like I should, because a friend of mine from NY lives there, because people told me that it was amazing, because an obnoxious man in NY told me that I couldn’t say that I’d only ever lived in major metropolitan areas if I’d never been there, because, because, because. But in the face of all those reasons my only experiences of DF had been sitting in hot, smoky, and polluted waiting rooms in the airport in which people never understand my Spanish and I always feel frumpy and uncool—coalescing in an image of the place as the worst of LA and New York. Plus, it’s not like media representations of DF anything but of a city that’s overcrowded, dangerous and polluted (L likes to tell me the percentage of fecal matter in the air). But, all its good personal PR and two friends living there convinced me to schedule a trip there in June and after S asked me to come pick her up at the airport, I decided to take the bus up a couple days early and see “the big city” for myself.

I took the bus up to DF on Saturday afternoon (it takes about six hours) and except for lots of low clouds and drizzle got a sense of the remote and gorgeous Mixteca region of Northern Oaxaca and Puebla (it really reminded me of the central CA valleys in some ways with a lot of cultivated fields bumping up against foothills). A lot of immigrants to New York and more rural Californian communities come from this area, which is very craggy and remote with the land essentially stripped because of mineral extraction and where there is essentially little to no economic prospects (coming back at night, there were no lights except for those of the cars along the pan-American highway and this amazingly bright almost full moon). I called my friend C (a friend I started grad school with) when I arrived and caught a cab to his apt (too many horror stories about people being kidnapped by pirate cabs led me to take an overpriced authorized one) and he took me out to dinner at a cool seafood place… where of course I misheard and almost ordered an undrinkable drink (after that I subscribed to the follow in C’s steps). And then he took me out to meet some of his expat friends at a bar that reminded me of my favorite bar in the lower east side (super chilled out and unpretentious), where we stayed out until the wee hours of the morning. For all that DF is in image and reality a dangerous city, the area C lives in feels very safe and insulated so much so that he and I walked to and from the bar with no incidents along tree shaded pedestrian medians. He walks everywhere (but also recognizes the gendered privilege of doing that) but also doesn’t carry any more money than he needs for while he’s out, his debit/ credit cards unless he’s on a specific errand, or ID, all things that I don’t think about while in Oaxaca.

C gave me his apt while I was there as he had keys to a friend’s apt around the corner and it was so nice to be back sleeping in a queen-sized bed with high-count cotton sheets as opposed to the double-bed/ poly-blend ones I have here—yuppy princess that I can be ☺ He was in the midst of a bunch of writing projects (it was really nice to be hashing out theoretical analyses with him) so he was like a mother bird pushing me out of the nest for me to practice flying for myself by myself.

So, Sunday I set off with my camera without a map with a general orientation in my head and a set of suggestions of parks to check out in C’s neighborhood. It was hard, but a good self-project combating my feelings of shyness and vulnerability, as I scouted out the scene and found a café to sit in as I waited for another friend C(the 2nd) to call me to hang out. It was Sunday in Mexico, a day for families, and most of the streets felt “closed” (the irony of my fears of a crowded overwhelming city) with the only public activities being located in the cafés and parks. I spent the afternoon in a big park in la Condessa neighborhood which was teaming with dogs hopping in and out of the fountains and at least physically heterogeneous crowds of families.





It very much felt like I could have been in any trendy upperclass neighborhood with the French revival archictecture (remnants of the Porferieto) and cosmopolitan crowds where I heard English and French as much as Spanish.


It is also an area that I heard a lot of buildings fell down during the Earthquake and weren’t replaced until recently as the neighborhood became more and more popular, and there are also new tall buildings (using the same design elements as the fancy new houses going up in Venice) interspersed with classic buildings and 1960s apartment complexes.





Something that I’ve often found in exploring a new city by myself is that it feels very overwhelming and things like finding a place to eat become hard tasks, but once accomplished everything else seems more manageable and possible. C(the 2nd, another friend from NY, the partner of someone in my program) took longer having brunch with his mother than expected and so I spent a couple hours hanging out in el Parque Mexico (which C described as like a section of Central Park) just watching everything happening around me. I spent a period of time bouncing between watching Tango lessons and listening to a band of two bagpipes and three drummers—Mexicans have no self-consciousness about dancing in public.



Monday I set off to play tourist and check out “el centro” and C sent me off via subway (big gulp), which was absolutely without problems (cleaner than NY’s). It was much more “Mexican” than the Roma and Condessa neighborhoods with tons of street puestos and hawkers and crowds and people everywhere. I realized I have become very accustomed to men with large guns around as I passed security guards with shotguns at ready standing outside of the McDonalds while an armored car idled at the curb. I took the subway (with transfers) to the Zocalo/ Palacio National and again, it was less intimidating and overwhelming than I had built it up in my mind (as well as less visually impressive).



These people were all standing in the only bit of shade in the Zocalo (the shadow of the flagpole).


This day I had brought my trusty Lonely Planet and had decided to go to this museum of Mexican Medicine (but I had forgotten that museums tend to be closed on Mondays) and so I wandered around aimlessly for a while until I ended up in the Secretaria de Education Publica where I had read that there were Diego Rivera murals. After getting lost and redirected, I came to a back patio where there are three floors of Rivera murals lining the walls and began to make my way around them taking them in aesthetically rather than trying to “get” them.



Midway through the second floor an older man stopped me to talk and introduced himself as a former Art History teacher and asked if I would let him show me around. I hesitated and then we went back down to the first floor (with him scolding me that I shouldn’t walk so fast and take the stairs, didn’t I know the altitude difference between NYC and DF? My explanations about living and hiking in Oaxaca didn’t help). It was a really incredible experience, he took me around slowly and insisted that I really “see” the murals, describing their import both aesthetically and politically and he was impressed with my knowledge of Diego and Mexican revolutionary politics (as he grumbled about Mexicans not taking the time to appreciate their national treasures, “it’s free, why don’t they come?!” and the lack of attention given by tour guides “you see how fast they go?!”). The first floor was all about the revolution and building a new society, the second devoted to the arts and sciences and al the state’s emblems, and the third was about the conflict between communist and capitalist society.







Not only the murals (which are incredibly impressive), but a really fascinating thing to see was the imprint of time on the paintings—as well as to notice the two murals that his assistants were responsible for, which brought into relief his conceptual and technical expertise.

Tuesday I took off again by myself and without a real plan I explored the Alameda and the Palacio de Bellas Artes and decided that I had inadvertently embarked on the Diego Rivera mural tour (with the DR mural museum across the park from Bellas Artes). Another truly impressive building (in a different way than the SEP) with two floors covered by murals Tomayo (he was Oaxacan), Rivera, and Siqueiros (including a recreation of the famous one destroyed by Rockefeller)-- it was fascinating to see the murals change in the perspective from across the atrium and upclose. And then I took the metro to meet C to meet S at the airport. Poor dear, she doesn’t speak Spanish and it took her no time at all get through immigration and customs so she beat us, but it all ended well. And, after taking her around C’s neighborhood for a late lunch, we caught an evening bus to Oaxaca.

It was really nice to be back in a “real city” and really brought home to me how much I’ve been living in the “provinces” more than ever before. I think that’s been one of the big differences in my time in Oaxaca versus other trips, and brought home the differences between living in a place versus being there for a sort of “out of real time” short trip. All and all it’s clarified for me some of the important things to look for in assessing places to live in the future, as well as some of the ways to build a new community around me.

It was wonderful visiting with C and then having S come, lovely to be around people who know me so well and love me. S was only in Mexico for 6 days, 4 in Oaxaca, but we packed so much into the time visiting five villages, taking very imaginable mode of transportation, and taking a cooking class…. and then she got sick ☹ and I got to practice my “mom skills” forcing pediolite on her and spending the day in bed watching movies (I introduced her to Frida and gave her a précis on Mexican post-revolutionary art/ politics and learned that she is a hidden font of knowledge about the Russian revolution).

Monday, July 28, 2008

On superficiality

I still really miss home (and it's a sort of amalgam of places that have been home to me, NY, LA, Boston) and while I am very glad to be here and my work is going well, there is a base longing that's hard to articulate. This is the longest I've been out of the country and on my own and I don't think that it's just that, it's also something about the things that I love about my "real life" that I don't have here which I think is more than just being in a foriegn country and instead about the specific place where I am (in the sense that I doubt I would have these exact longings living in Mexico City). But when I try to describe those longings, they are on the whole very superficial.

It's not that I don't miss my friends and my constructed families, I do intensely, but the joys of an internet phone mean that I can call them daily (or multiple times daily) for frivolous matters without having to think about it (the inability to send them snarky texts is unfortunate though). And I really miss my neighborhoods, in Brooklyn, Venice and Somerville which had a comfortable familiarity I haven't matched here (I snort at the people who tell me there's no community in the US like here). But on a base level when I enumerate what I miss, it's the things that are on the one hand entirely superficial: shopping and food.

I have Americans movies here and there's wonderful live music opportunities that I rarely take advantage of and it's not like this place is not a mecca for both food and shopping, it's just a bit one note after a while (which was another wonderful thing about being in Mexico City, the visual heterogeneity of people, class not so much, where I didn't feel like I stood out as an obvious outsider). So when people ask what I miss I answer, takeout chinese food (the one "really good" chinese restaurant that required L and I to ford a dry river to find it was abysmal), Indian food, baking (I can't figure out what the 1,2,3,4,5 dials correspond to in terms of temperature on my oven, nor have I found baking powder yet), shopping for clothes (because of the physical homogeneity of people here stuff just isn't cut big enough in the chest for me) and things to brighten my apt (I have great craft stuff, but it's not the same)-- all of the frivolous trappings of a particularly bougie life that I've crafted for myself. And then there's books, and I did bring some, but it's the access to new and varied ones that I miss.

But I want to think that these are more than just superficial things, that they are perhaps more the outward practices of building a life in a cosmopolitian city that are really different from those in a foreign provincial city. I mean, when I hang out with "the ladies" in some ways what we do illustrates those differences, we have dinner parties, rooftop cocktails and brunch-- familiar categories of activities. And, it's never been a secret to myself that I am someone who loves routine and nesting in familiar patterns, which is ironic given the demands of my profession (and it's not that I don't also love adventures, just contained and with home to come back to).

I'm still masticating on this and think that I could also just be being self-indulgent and when it comes down to it, what I really really really miss is water. This is the first time I've lived this far away from an ocean and even though after my accident I haven't been swimming very much, at least in NY I watched the river everyday as I went over it by subway and beach trips were an easy indulgence not requiring an overnight bus and someone to accompany me.

And, on a completely non-superficial yay me note, I just finished my first fieldnote book!!! I have several bigger notebooks that I leave at home and take notes in as I think and then also notes I've typed directly into my computer, but this is the little book I carry everywhere when I know that I'll be doing fieldwork and has all my "official" observations in it.

Sunday, July 27, 2008

Lazy Lazy Blogging

In place of actually writing about all of the stuff percolating in my brain, here are random pictures from a wedding I went to last weekend (including picture #56 billion of folding chairs).











Monday, July 21, 2008

Things I have learned today

well, one is that I have been very lax in writing up my doings (which I mean to rectify, although I have been to Mexico City and then had a friend visiting lately). The more interesting ones are the ways that the whole city changes during Guelagetza season (currently ongoing) in ways that make me even more hermit-like.

The Guelagetza started today (the very very very thumbnail version is that it was originally a Zapotec festival, sort of, in which communities came together to exchange stuff that has morphed into a huge corporate event in which communities from every region are invited to present dances in this major amphitheater making it the major tourist, and economic, event of the season) and L and I decided to take our usual stair climb to see if we could see anything from up above. The stairs were seriously mobbed (although there was a traffic cop which was a welcome change) as were the areas all around the theater with puestos selling food, cheap plastic goods and pirated entertainment. But, this was also one time that it was good to be a busty guera as the state cops waved us into a second (no metal detectors for us!) where we could see the stage (or I could since I have inches on L). Unfortunately it was as I had expected, very beautiful but repetitive dance and music, so we left after a bit.

The other major thing I learned is that when they shoot off "american" fireworks (ie ones that you can see as well as hear), everything stops. They really sound different from the usual ones that go off with annoying ubiquity and we piled out into the street with our neighbors (we had perfect viewing spots). People came out of their cars as there was no where to go since people thronged to the intersection at the bottom of our street to watch. It was quite magical and made me happy that I haven't entirely missed fireworks as they lasted for probably 20 minutes-half an hour.

Meanwhile, until I make the time to write about my adventures wandering around Mexico City by myself (I can't recommend the subway, off peak hours, enough!), here are some pictures from wandering around pueblos during my visit with S.

These are all taken in Mitla (after a 6.5 hour bus ride that got in at 2:30 am) but not much of the ruins there (which are really interesting).





And these are from Teotitlan (on the same day, S is a total trooper!).




Friday, July 11, 2008

Off again

This time to Mexico City for the first time (excited, nervous, intimidated) to hang out with some friends from NY and then pick up a good friend to bring back via bus. I have a bunch of stuff waiting to be written up that I obviously haven't gotten to.

All I can say is that I now have new found empathy and respect for anthropologists who live in places with non-traditionally American kinds of food, as I have learned that Menudo is just not something that I can stomach... or mutton.... or most non-American cuts of meat. I've also learned that I can skate pretty much under the radar by dumping lots of "verduras" (lime, cilantro and cabbage) on top of the menudo and only eating broth and then employing the "tortilla dip" method where in I throw lots of cabbage over whatever meat I don't want to eat and then dip my tortilla in the sauce and eat just the cabbage (taking the rest of the meat home in a plastic bag as expected, unfortunately it would be rude to throw it out).

Friday, July 4, 2008

Is this a good or bad thing?

So apparently L's closest friend in Gelavia, who has been amazingly welcoming to me as well, has picked up on my mannerism of putting my hand to my upper chest when I'm being super sincere and is now imitating it as "my" thing.... is it good or bad when people pay enough attention to me to notice mannerisms? Yay anthropology as putting yourself out there to be made fun off as the foreign freak, ayyyyy!!!!!