Things I have learned today

well, one is that I have been very lax in writing up my doings (which I mean to rectify, although I have been to Mexico City and then had a friend visiting lately). The more interesting ones are the ways that the whole city changes during Guelagetza season (currently ongoing) in ways that make me even more hermit-like.

The Guelagetza started today (the very very very thumbnail version is that it was originally a Zapotec festival, sort of, in which communities came together to exchange stuff that has morphed into a huge corporate event in which communities from every region are invited to present dances in this major amphitheater making it the major tourist, and economic, event of the season) and L and I decided to take our usual stair climb to see if we could see anything from up above. The stairs were seriously mobbed (although there was a traffic cop which was a welcome change) as were the areas all around the theater with puestos selling food, cheap plastic goods and pirated entertainment. But, this was also one time that it was good to be a busty guera as the state cops waved us into a second (no metal detectors for us!) where we could see the stage (or I could since I have inches on L). Unfortunately it was as I had expected, very beautiful but repetitive dance and music, so we left after a bit.

The other major thing I learned is that when they shoot off "american" fireworks (ie ones that you can see as well as hear), everything stops. They really sound different from the usual ones that go off with annoying ubiquity and we piled out into the street with our neighbors (we had perfect viewing spots). People came out of their cars as there was no where to go since people thronged to the intersection at the bottom of our street to watch. It was quite magical and made me happy that I haven't entirely missed fireworks as they lasted for probably 20 minutes-half an hour.

Meanwhile, until I make the time to write about my adventures wandering around Mexico City by myself (I can't recommend the subway, off peak hours, enough!), here are some pictures from wandering around pueblos during my visit with S.

These are all taken in Mitla (after a 6.5 hour bus ride that got in at 2:30 am) but not much of the ruins there (which are really interesting).





And these are from Teotitlan (on the same day, S is a total trooper!).